Putting old traveler back on

I reinstalled everything and added two big offshore camcleats spread a little wider than their original positions on the deck. I also added new jamcleats near the primaries. I still need new jamcleats near secondaries, Both pulpits and all stanchions and bases reinstalled, however I need to make backing plates first so it might be awhile. Here's some more pics.

More hardware on

Alot of holes to mark, over-drill, tape, fill, remark, chamfer, re-drill, re-tape, clean, seal, and mount. This is a time consuming process and it sucks. In order to do it right, it takes a lot of time and patience. It's no wonder people cut corners when re-bedding hardware. I'm also doing it myself so I'm constantly running topsides and then down below decks to tighten each bolt with the help of vicegrips wedged against something, to hold the nut while I tighten it.I've got both Genoa tracks, clutches, deck organizers, backstay adjustment eye pad, foreguy eye pad and bullet fairleads, and the port side spin block eyepad properly re-mounted. I still need to mount the camcleats (3) for double-ended foreguy, and topping lift, the starboard eyepad for spin block, and a stand-up block that I originally bought to replace a blown halyard mast block that I decided to not mount, instead I will mount it up close to the Bow for a tack line to fly an asymmetrical spinnaker. Overall I'm pleased with my new deck layout. I have new cordage en route. I plan to eventually run a reefing line to the cockpit via the port organizer( i bought two (4) sheave models so I have an unused sheave). I also plan to rig a lazy jack system that I can control from the cockpit as well.

I also bought a trick throttle cable and mounting brackets to replace my choke/kill cable for the Yanmar. My old one required two hands and a lot of strength to pull. I remounted it in a new location as you can see in the picture. I also used an unused Spinlock bulls-eye fairlead as a handle for the cable and when my new cordage comes in I'll tie a monkey fist knot to it, and it will look sweet. Pics to follow. Mango out.

Transom work

I removed the chainplates, swim ladder, from the back of the boat. The transom is thicker than I thought (about 2 inches). The chainplate holes were mostly dry. The fasteners for everything were rusting.

I overdrilled every hole and sealed with very thick epoxy. I will redrill and remount the chainplates/backstay this evening. The ladder needs to be cleaned up or replaced.
I'm mostly concerned with waterproofing the core with the epoxy fill method.

I may also add backing plates to the chainplates at that time.

Winches and Jib tracks finally on.

I properly mounted the primaries and secondaries so I got clean, rebuilt winches finally. I mounted the jib tracks and I'm getting ready to drill/fill the genny track holes. I plan on going sailing on both sat and sun. I'm also going to fly my spinnaker if I can mount my blocks by the weekend.

Mounting Primary

Measured and marked holes with base of winch. Masked whole area with 3M tape to contain mess. Drilled holes oversize with 3/4 inch forstner bit. Mixed west system and pre-filled holes with unthickened epoxy. Went below and drained each hole back into mixing cup. Mixed in colloidal silica thickener until mayo consistency. Injected thickened epoxy into holes with syringe. Only filled up to 1/8 inch below surface due to the fact that the epoxy rises a bit. Here's the hardened result. Spent all night cleaning/re greasing, and building primary winch.
Ground the hardened epoxy down to the surface. Acetoned, then put base of other winch down and centered the holes over the enlarged, filled holes, and marked with a marker. Removed winch base and predrilled a pilot hole with a small bit on low at a slow speed in order to prevent the epoxy from cracking. I then drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the pilot hole in order to facilitate the 5/16 bolt of the primary. I recessed the holes with a 3/4 inch recess bit(chamfer). This will allow more sealant to collect around each bolt and form an o-ring of sealant. I then acetoned the holes, the base of the primary, and the bolts. I put down a generous amount of 3M 4000UV sealant around each hole and the perimeter of the base. I then installed the base of the winch. I went below and installed the fender washers and lock nuts. I tightened everything down with an impact driver. I went topsides and cleaned the excess sealant from the edge of the base. Removed the tape surrounding the base. Acetoned everything until satisfied. and then put the winch drum back on the base.
Here is the final result and I only have three more to go. (I'm not reinstalling my halyard winches, I'm only mounting my secondaries which will double as halyard winches. I'll just need to buy locking snatch blocks in order to free up my secondaries for raising the spin halyard, and just change the genny sheet on my primaries to spin sheet, and vice versa.

After pics

Notice the flattened nonskid has more contrast with the shiny coat, due to flattening agent mixed with the paint.
It's good... now on to mounting hardware. Primaries first. I'm not in a hurry to remount stanchions and pulpits because I still need to fabricate backing plates and epoxy them to the underside of the deck. I'm going to take my time and do it right. Besides ,I'm not going open water at the present time and the lack of lifelines is more convienient.

Another coat of non-skid (before pics)

Taped but not trimmed.
Notice the uneven brush/roller marks in the unflattened first coat picture of the deck below.

rolled.

I already have so much time invested in this deck rebuild, whats another two days worth of work. I scrubbed the deck with TSP on tuesday, Taped the non skid areas on wednesday, Sanded the bow and deck on thursday, AndI got up at 530 and started sanding the nonskid on last time with a longboard and small block for the tape line. I awlprepped it, alcohol wiped it, and put one last coat of flattened awlgrip with a conservative amount of course griptex particles. (I guess thats more than two days). I mixed up too much. I was worried about running out so I didn't plan on recoating the cockpit. I wish I had, I had about a quart of mix left over. I'm glad i bought so much paint but I probably only needed half. Overall I'm happier with the result. I kept a wet edge and went more carefully this time, we'll see if it looks good once its dry. It might take me a while to remount everything cause I'm out of cash and I need roughly $1300 for all my new things I want. I'm getting a harken windward sheeting traveller system, new t-tracks for my blocks, new fasteners for everything, and a new halyard block and clutch for my main halyard, and G10 frp for backing plates. Then if I win the lottery which might be difficult since I don't play, I'm getting a harken MKIV roller furling for the front, that'll be another $3300 with a sail. I'll stop rambling now.

Cabin interior complete for now

Cabin ceiling and deck was scrubbed with artificial steel wool pads and TSP, Awlprepped, sanded with random orbital 60 grit, primed with Awlgrip 545 primer, then lightly scuffed. The ceiling was painted with BEHR exterior enamel(alpine snow white). I rolled it. The cabin floor was painted with AWLGRIP light grey topside paint, flattened and mixed with course griptex additive for a non-skid surface. I also cleaned /primed and nonskid painted the teak cover to the bilge. I didn't like the slimy feeling under foot when the wood was wet. Mahogany trim pieces were installed in the companionway with 3M 4000UV sealant. No need for screws, this shit is tenacious. I will eventually repaint the original yellow FRP surfaces with left over awlgrip, I just don't feel like it right now. Priority is on remounting hardware.

Cabin is sanded

I hate sanding.

Color

I like this color scheme , and it's more practical for the weather here.

Fairing Inside

I ground down the fiberglassed instrument holes from the inside. I 50 grit sanded (orbital) all of my holes and depressions from the fender washers securing my old cabintop hardware. I alcohol wiped everything clean. Mixed up some epoxy, added silica for thickener ( can't let it run or sag from above), added microballons and spread the mixture onto the depressions. It's important to spread the mixture out onto a paint tray or something similar in order to extend your working time with epoxy. If you skip this step and leave it in a container it will kick off and harden 5 times as fast( with a fast hardener). I then scraped the remaining mixture in the pan with a popsicle stick and spot filled alot of small holes and imperfections. It will take three or more fairing evolutions ( sand, clean, epoxy) to get the smoothness I want. My last sanding will be with a small longboard by hand.

Old interior

Here's some before pics of what I'm working with. I know I'm going to grind, fill, fair, prime and paint the ceiling and instrument bulkhead. I'm also quite certain I'm going to paint and nonskid the cabin floor with leftover light gray awlgrip. I just don't know about removing all of the interior woodwork. Although I'm sure it will come to that.

Sandbar fourth of july

I put a block on my chainplate and one on my rear cleat and flew my #3 to the sandbar (broad reach), motored back.