![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvh-yS7_mSfi6qPCCQfeps5YTEGM9NnJ0CeORlblSJpkUB2y4cSMjp0AICIDroTSSWE46LSI4EKaPjV6wwg0-ZPyzevqHwQ-_jwH4JET0PRJknnnfzvO6Nzhmxuj-_h0ZK1714KMGH_r_C/s320/boat4.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6Pj6hpJUkT5A9cEKoFVu_YnaQHFzn4CYWnRcMytKYpOyBD31uW0IaONN6bag6tpTNgh76xlQhVTpsavdSJYHKfJI-eS4xqmqNg8bAyLYZ-RhHpzOoWu-8LW_rva3NB75D12EN-9ygoQw/s320/boat4+001.jpg)
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I ground down the fiberglassed instrument holes from the inside. I 50 grit sanded (orbital) all of my holes and depressions from the fender washers securing my old cabintop hardware. I alcohol wiped everything clean. Mixed up some epoxy, added silica for thickener ( can't let it run or sag from above), added microballons and spread the mixture onto the depressions. It's important to spread the mixture out onto a paint tray or something similar in order to extend your working time with epoxy. If you skip this step and leave it in a container it will kick off and harden 5 times as fast( with a fast hardener). I then scraped the remaining mixture in the pan with a popsicle stick and spot filled alot of small holes and imperfections. It will take three or more fairing evolutions ( sand, clean, epoxy) to get the smoothness I want. My last sanding will be with a small longboard by hand.
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