Thursday, July 3, 2008

AWLGRIP Non Skid











I finally finished up the painting process. It took several days to complete. 3 coats of 545 primer, sanded 220, awlprepped + alcohol wiped. 2 to 3 coats of reduced awlgrip light gray topcoat paint. Ready for the nonskid. I mean how hard can it be? I spent countless hours mixing and thickening epoxy for the repairs. Hours mixing the fairing compound. Hours mixing and brushing/rolling primer and paint. Non skid upon internet research, looks to be an easy process but, If you want it to be spreadable on the deck after you apply it (good thing), follow the awlgrip instructions and don't mix it thick. In fact 3/4 of a quart of griptex mixed into two+ quarts of paint mixture is plenty. Bottom line, I scraped and sanded the nonskid off the bow section twice. Lesson learned, also keep a wet edge with the nonskid, and if you want a uniform color/glare in the sun, mix enough to do the whole deck at once.


That being said, the paint/nonskid is done. The tape is removed. The hatches are bedded and fastened (new lexan $212). The chocks and cleats and cowl vents are properly bedded and fatened with new 316 stainless fasteners. The hinges for the cockpit compartment lids, and anchor locker are new 316 stainless and properly installed. My stained and varnished mahogany trim for the companionway and hatch are finished and about to be installed this evening. My wife says she's going to clean the cabin. I still have to clean up paint drips on the hull, clean up the transom, and I want to put a bead of 3m 4000uv around the inside of the toerails to seal the paint edge.


Overall the boat looks good, but until I have my hardware reinstalled and new lifelines/ color, the boat topsides looks kind of plain.

2 comments:

Tim said...

Mango Madness looks awesome - nice work.

How abrasive to human skin is your application of AWLGRIP non-skid?

Mango Madness said...

Very similar to 36 grit sandpaper. I used extra course.